When I first arrive at the Golden Temple in northwestern India, I do what most people do: snap a few pictures, trying (with marginal success) to capture the astonishing grandeur of the edifice, and absorb the idea that I’m gazing at a place that holds four-plus centuries of history. Then I head for the langar. That’s Punjabi for “kitchen,” and this one is every bit as grand as the great building around it suggests. The temple, also known as Sri Harmandir Sahib, is one of Sikhism’s most important spiritual pilgrimage sites. It welcomes more than 75,000 visitors a day—and each can receive a free meal, regardless of religion, caste, or color. Amar Das, a formative figure in Sikh history, began the tradition of langar as a way of showing that religion should be less about ceremony and more about treating everyone equally. People eat well here, too. Many Sikhs donate a percentage of their income to the temple—and some give freshly harvested organic food. The temple receives more than $100,000 worth of donations from farmers each day.
The simple menu revolves around seasonal produce and grains cooked in staggering quantities. Ingredients __like rice and flour are measured in thousands of kilograms. The lentil and vegetable dishes are made in cooking pots the size of garden sheds and require two men to stir. I pass a group of about 40 women peeling the Everest of garlic required for the meals.
"Everyone sits in the floor and eats the same food. That is spirituality."
“If everyone does a little, it will be a lot,” says Darshan Kaur, who volunteers a few hours each day. “God has provided. Now it’s time for the gratitude.” As we speak, I find myself joining in the work, my hands mirroring hers, slowly, almost meditatively rolling out disks of bread. I work up an appetite and head to a huge dining hall—the temple can accommodate 5,000 people at once.
My guide, Gobind, leads me to my place among diners sitting cross-legged on the floor—men, women, children; rich and poor. Men come and fill our plates. The dal is lavish with turmeric and coriander. Curried pumpkin, cauliflower, and potato curry are fall-apart tender. “For me,” Gobind says, “this is the main purpose of the place. Everyone sits equally on the floor and eats the same food. That is spirituality.”
The menu is simple and revolves around seasonal produce cooked in staggering quantities.
Spiced chickpeas (Chana Masala)
Serves 6
This lavishly spiced stew of chickpeas is served with rice during communal meals offered at Sikh temples.
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
1½ teaspoons ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon turmeric
2 bay leaves
1 chile de arbol, broken in half
1 cinnamon stick, broken in half
1 medium clove of garlic, minced
2 plum tomatoes, finely chopped
2 cans (15 ounce each) chickpeas, rinsed and drained
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger
Kosher salt
1 teaspoon garam masala
4 cups cooked rice
½ cup coarsely chopped cilantro
1. In a large skillet over medium, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until golden, about 5 minutes. Stir in the coriander, cumin, turmeric, bay leaves, chile, cinnamon, and garlic; cook until toasted and fragrant, about 1 minute more.
2. Add the tomatoes and cook until almost dry, about 2 minutes. Add the chickpeas, ginger, ½ cup water, and a large pinch of salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until the flavors meld and a thick sauce forms, about 10 minutes.
3. Stir in the garam masala and season to taste with salt. Remove and discard the bay leaves, chile, and cinnamon. Serve over rice and top with cilantro.