29 Mar 2015

Why you should stay longer in Siem Reap

While two or three days might have been an adequate amount of time to spend in Cambodia's Siem Reap five years ago, you’ll be doing the town and yourself a disservice if that's all you spend here these days. We could fill your time for a month, given half a chance. So whether you're into nature, culture, adventure or shopping, here are some ideas for why you should definitely be adding a couple of more days to your trip.


We’re guessing you’ve got a couple of cultural activities, like an Apsara dance show or shadow puppet theatre nailed down, and the “big three” temples (Angkor Wat, Ta Prohm and Bayon) on your list of things you have to do. But starting with the temples, the Angkor Archaeological Park is actually home to more than 400 temple sites, some of which are no more than a bump in the ground, and some of which are just as impressive, but most of which are nowhere near as crowded as those jewels in the Khmer Empire’s crown.

Darkness and light with shadow puppet theatre interpreting ancient Khmer legends and modern morality tales
Darkness and light with shadow puppet theatre interpreting ancient Khmer legends and modern morality tales

Close at hand, you’ll find Preah Khan, a temple built on a similar model to its better-known sister Ta Prohm, though on a much grander scale. It too features those magnificent silk cotton and strangler fig trees that have made the “Tomb Raider” temple so famous, but it also boasts far fewer crowds, much more open space in which to explore, and it is not one giant building site as Ta Prohm seems to be much of the time.

Other lovely temples that are worth extending your itinerary for include Beng Mealea, located about 70 kilometres northeast of Siem Reap. This is a wonderful tumbledown temple, where you can climb through ancient fallen galleries, and step above the ruins on specially constructed walkways. It has an adventurous feel that is guaranteed to give any budding Indiana Joneses a real kick.

The mysteries of Banteay Chhmar are still being unravelled by archaeologists
The mysteries of Banteay Chhmar are still being unravelled by archaeologists.

If you want to go even further afield, then Banteay Chhmar is worth an overnight trip. This lovely, remote temple was also built by Jayavarman VII, the ferocious warrior and prolific builder behind Bayon, Ta Prohm, Preah Khan and many more. No-one yet knows why it was built where it is, and few make the journey, meaning you should be able explore the whole temple in relative isolation. Here, man and nature give it their best and combine in a way that is truly awe-inspiring. There is a very well-run homestay here too, so you can sample a little of village life.

Back in Siem Reap, we’re still aiming to get you out of town as much as possible, and one of the best ways to do that is by motorscooter. Two companies, Khmer Ways and Vespa Adventures, offer you the chance to accelerate your experience of Siem Reap. Khmer Ways have a small fleet of Honda Dreams that they’ve kitted out with knobbly tyres to help you get into that “off-road” feeling. There aren’t many roads these guys behind this don’t know about around Cambodia, let alone Siem Reap, and they have developed some fantastic itineraries. Their signature tour takes in a swim in a reservoir, a visit to the very remote Chau Say Vibol temple, barbecue, climb up Phnom Bok for some awesome views, and more, for $70 ($60 per person if two people). If you’ve never riden a scooter before, they’ll give you lessons.

If that seems a little too much, and you like to do things with a little more style, then Vespa Adventures are calling. Their fleet of Vespas is ready to take you on heritage, food and cultural tours, with prices starting at $60 per person.

Exploring Phnom Kulen, still the site of much illegal logging
Exploring Phnom Kulen, still the site of much illegal logging.

For a real challenge, take one of Khmer Ways’ trips to Phnom Kulen. The mountain range to the northeast of Siem Reap is home to a forest rich with wildlife and plant life, including silver langurs, whose presence here was only formally recorded last year, and hundreds of birds, butterflies, bats and many more. With a full-day tour, you motorscooter approximately 70 kilometres to the mountain range, then take off for a three-hour hike through specially cleared trails. The hike is part of an ecotourism/conservation initiative aimed at protecting the forest on which these animals all depend.

Flying high
Flying high.

If adventure is your thing, then you might want to test your flying skills with Flight Of The Gibbon. A thrilling, 10-strong string of ziplines will zoom you over the canopy to the north of Angkor Wat at heights of up to 50 metres. It’s a stunning way to enjoy the forests, and you may even catch a glimpse of the gibbons that the company released into the forests as part of a conservation programme they run in cooperation with the Wildlife Alliance. A three-hour treetop tour is $109 per person.

Just checking in...
Just checking in…

Taking a cycling tour — Grasshopper Adventures or Beyond Unique Escapes have good reputations — is another option, or hire a bicycle in town (read up on safety here first) and strike out on your own (thanks to the gods of Google Maps, though don’t forget to bring water, and note that a lot of places out of town are also out of mobile and 3G range).

On to more sedentary matters. Siem Reap does not at first glimpse look like it offers much for shoppers, but scratch beneath the surface and treasures are to be found — and not the type you typically find in every single market across Southeast Asia [we’re looking at you Mr Elephant Pants].

One of Ly Piseth's essays on nature
One of Ly Piseth's essays on nature.

For such a relatively small town, Siem Reap is a hotbed of creativity and design, and one of the realms in which that is unfolding is jewellery. Just off Pub Street, you’ll find Garden of Desire, with Ly Piseth’s extraordinary designs in silver. These are beautiful in their own right, but if the artist is present, please do ask him about them as every single piece you see is filled with meaning, whether it is a meditation on making peace with the past, or his interpretation of humankind’s relationship with nature. This is a very special place.

Nearby, you’ll find a shop called Saomao, which is bursting with gorgeous jewellery, including Ammo, the work of Madeline Greene. Her collection of delicately turned earrings, necklaces and bracelets made from bullet casings from past wars are beautiful and unsettling all at once, and definitely unique. On The Lane, you’ll find Graines du Cambodge, where another selection of truly Cambodian pieces can be found. The collection, made from seeds, is very pretty and unlike anything you’ll find anywhere else.

Gorgeous grains
Gorgeous grains — a seed bracelet.

On a more expensive scale, you’ll find the collection by anti-trafficking NGO, Senhoa, at the Shinta Mani Resort shop, Anakut. This dramatic collection of pieces is hand-crafted by young women who have been rescued from trafficking. These are statement pieces that are not for the shy.

If you want to match elegance and daring, then other uniquely Cambodian shopping stops include Eric Raisina’s salon in Charming City, and Ambre in Central Park, besides the Raffles Gardens. Their stunning designs have received international recognition, and you most certainly will never find yourself embarrassed to be in the same dress as someone else at a party once you get home.

Last but not least: make sure you allow time to savour the incredible dining on offer in Siem Reap. The town punches above its weight when it comes to food, whether you're talking about Cambodian cuisine with a French twist at Cuisine Wat Damnak, civilised cocktails and tapas into the wee hours, or dining with your heart at one of the many charity training restaurants that put many professional eateries elsewhere to shame. Then there's the food walks, and while in the past we've gorged our way through River Garden's food tour more recently we've also heard consistently great feedback on the offerings by Siem Reap Food Tours, run by chef Steven and an ex Travelfish writer, Lina.

And if you're all pooped out, plenty of spas offer treatments to help you unwind properly — it is a holiday, after all, right?

More information

Ambre J7 Hotel, National Route 6, Siem Reap. T: (063) 765 440 http://www.romydaketh.net
Anakut (Inside Shinta Mani Resort) http://www.shintamani.com
Banteay Chhmar Homestay T: (097) 516 5533 http://www.visitbanteaychhmar.org/homestays/
Beyond Unique Escapes Corner of Pub Street and Sivatha Blvd., Siem Reap. T: (077) 562 165. http://www.beyonduniqueescapes.com
Eric Raisina Charming City, Siem Reap http://www.ericraisina.com
Flight of the Gibbon Street 8, Siem Reap. T: (096) 999 9101. http://www.treetopasia.com
Garden of Desire The Passage, Siem Reap http://gardenofdesire-asia.com
Graines du Cambodge The Lane, Siem Reap. T: (097) 357 7585 http://www.grainesducambodge.com
Grasshopper Adventures Street 26, Siem Reap. T: (012) 462 165. http://www.grasshopperadventures.com
Indochine Explorations T: (092) 650 096 http://www.indochineex.com
Khmer Ways http://khmerways.com
River Garden food tours West River Road, Siem Reap. T: (063) 963 400. http://therivergarden.info/activities/
Saomao Street 9, Siem Reap. T: (012) 818 130 https://saomaosocialenterprise.wordpress.com
Siem Reap Food Tours http://www.siemreapfoodtours.com/
Vespa Adventures T: (012) 861 610 http://www.vespaadventures.com



Story by Nicky Sullivan

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25 Mar 2015

One year on: Picfair’s best travel photography

If you’re a keen travel photographer, amateur or professional, and you’ve not heard of Picfair you’re missing a trick. As a platform for professional photographers it’s revolutionary, allowing them to sell their pictures at a price they want. Travellers with camera can get in on the action too. Since its launch in August 2013, 5,000 photographers (both amateur and seasoned pros) in 63 countries have uploaded 80,000 images, which can be licensed by anyone at the click of a button. Journalist and founder of Picfair, Benji Lanyado said:

“We’re the first direct route from photographer to buyer, cutting out the agencies who have taken the vast majority of fees for decades. We’re AirBnB for images! We’re also open to all – amateur photographers have never had a place to sell their images alongside pros, and now they do.”

So in celebration of Picfair’s first birthday, and in the beginning of a new series on RoughGuides.com, where we’ll showcase a selection of our favourite travel photos on Picfair with a different theme each month, here is the best of their travel photography so far:

The Saltador, Castellón de la Plana, Spain

SINGLE USE ONLY - SALTADOR, Castellón de la Plana, Spain

The Echo Man at Angkor Wat, Cambodia

SINGLE USE ONLY - ECHO MAN, CAMBODIA

Bondi Beach, New South Wales, Australia

SINGLE US ONLY - BONDI BEACH, AUSTRALIA

Chicken Hat, Cuba

Chicken Head, Havana, Cuba

Balloons over Cappadocia, Turkey

Balloons, Cappadocia, Turkey - PICFAIR - SINGLE USE ONLY

Port au Prince, Haiti

SINGLE USE ONLY - HAITI

Death Valley, California, USA

SINGLE USE ONLY - DEATH VALLEY USA

Sunset over a glacier in Iceland

SINGLE USE ONLY - SUNSET ICELAND

Monks shopping in Chiang Mai, Thailand

SINGLE USE ONLY - MONKS, CHIANG MAI, THAILAND

The Reichstag, Berlin, Germany

SINGLE USE ONLY - REICHSTAG, BERLIN

 Graffitied staircase, Sau Paulo, Brazil

SINGLE USE ONLY - SAO PAULO, BRAZIL

A barber on the Varanasi ghats, India

SINGLE USE ONLY - VARANASI STREET SCENE, INDIA

A window cleaner on the Shard, London, England

SINGLE USE ONLY - THE SHARD WINDOW CLEANER, LONDON

Hong Kong, China

SINGLE USE ONLY - HONG KONG PANORAMA

View from the 86th floor of the Grand Hyatt Hotel, Jin Mao Tower, Shanghai, China

SINGLE USE ONLY - Grand Hyatt Hotel inside the Jin Mao Tower in Pudong, Shanghai, China

Above New York City, USA

SINGLE USE ONLY - NYC, USA

Ladies in Havana, Cuba

SINGLE USE ONLY - HAVANA SUBBATHERS, CUBA

Chicago, USA

SINGLE USE ONLY - CHICAGO

Udaipur street scene, Rajasthan, India

SINGLE USE ONLY - UDAIPUR STREET SCENE, INDIA

Timkat festival, Ethiopia

SINGLE USE ONLY - Timkat, Rooney, Ethiopia, Orthodox Festival, Epiphany

Peaceful protest, Bangkok, Thailand

SINGLE USE ONLY - BANGKOK PEACEFUL RIOTS, THAILAND

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Things to do in Phnom Penh, the underrated capital

Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Things to do in Phnom Penh, the underrated capital

Ageing ceramics at the National Museum

“Do you think it’ll just be full of old pottery?” my friend asked as we set off for the National Museum, our first stop in the Cambodian capital. Now I won’t lie to those averse to aged ceramics, there pottery. But there is also a sublime collection of Khmer sculptures and art, which, had the Khmer Rouge had their way, would not have survived to this day. It’s one of the most absorbing national museums I’ve visited, just large enough to be comprehensive yet compact enough to see it all in a couple of hours, and bizarrely, a simple map illustrating the former domination of the Khmer Empire draws the largest crowds, united in astonishment upon realising just how far and wide it once ruled.

National Museum, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

The surprise factor on Sisowath Quay

Phnom Penh is all about this surprise factor. On a walk along Sisowath Quaythe city’s pedestrianised riverfront, you’re likely to witness an aerobics class, local boys skateboarding or the serene sight of monks strolling, clad in orange robes. At the weekend, you’ll probably end up at the Phsar Reatrey night market where chocolate waffles, cold beer, kebabs and fried insects are all abundantly available.

More traditional sights are on the menu too, though, as colourful and (temples) are scattered around the city, and for those who have visited Bangkok’s Grand Palace, the architecture of Phnom Penh’s Royal Palace and glittering Silver Pagoda will ring a bell. Its murals, and gardens, and Baccarat crystal Buddha, are reminiscent of those found in the Thai capital.

Monks at Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

The sobering Genocide Museum

The colour and pomp of the Royal Palace is in stark contrast to another much-visited spot – the S21 Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. It’s one of the more sobering things to do in Phnom Penh, but essential for anyone who wants to understand what happened between 1975 and 1979 when Pol Pot’s Khmer Rouge created an atmosphere of suspicion and terror. This former high school was one of about 150 security prisons from those dark days, now home to harrowing exhibits, information panels, a video room and prisoner photographs. The history lesson continues half an hour outside Phnom Penh at Choeung Ek (better known as the Killing Fields) where an audio tour does a fine job of sensitively guiding you through these now-tranquil woods and fields, where over 20,000 mass graves lie, and to the Buddhist (spherical mound-like structure) containing some 8,985 human skulls. It’s not easy listening, but it is done very well.

The best place for bagging bargains

There’s plenty of light relief in the city too. Luckily, Phnom Penh is widely (and quite rightly) considered to be the best place to shop in Cambodia. Under the striking yellow dome of Central Market (Phsar Thmey) you can pick up anything from cheap electronics to clothes and souvenirs. Also worth a visit are the mazes inside the Russian Market (Psah Toul Tom Pong) where not only will you find ethical crafts and Khmer trinkets, you only need to delve deeper to discover all manner of stalls, selling obscure car parts and surreal-looking local fruits.

Phnom Penh nightlife

By night, Phnom Penh takes on another aura. The riverfront’s rooftop bars buzz with the clinking of glasses as sunset-seekers settle down, cocktails in hand, to watch the glowing red ball settle on the Mekong River. The legendary Foreign Correspondents’ Club remains a popular choice, where under the hum of the ceiling fans, a cold beer and the nightly sunset keep everyone happy.

Phnom Penh nightlife, Cambodia

Commendable Cambodian cuisine

Along with shopping, the capital is the best place in Cambodia for food, too – both international and Khmer, which is slowly developing its own identity with dishes like (coconut fish steamed in banana leaves), sticky rice with mango and Kampot pepper crab. Along with Siem Reap, Phnom Penh is also pioneering the concept of ethical eating with an ever-increasing number of restaurants and cafes training formerly disadvantaged people in all things culinary. This concept is at the heart of the Friends International brand with places such as Friends the Restaurant, Romdeng and Le Café Mith Samlanh. Other recommendations include Cafe Yejj near the Russian Market, and Sugar ‘n Spice Café at Daughters.

Exploring on foot or tuk-tuk

Tuk-tuks are the best way to get around this relatively compact capital, but if you enjoy walking, the French Quarter is probably the city’s only intact historic neighbourhood with wide boulevards and colonial architecture. Look out for Raffles Hotel, Manolis Hotel and the former Banque de l’Indochine before heading river-wards to the 27-metre-high hill of Wat Phnom, after which Phnom Penh was named. It’s the highest point in this low-rise city so the views are not half-bad. Not-for-profit group KA Tours also run an architecture tour around the city from the comfort of a pedal-powered cyclo.

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The best of Cambodia’s islands

The best of Cambodia’s islands

The best of Cambodia’s islands

No less than sixty Cambodian islands dot the azure Gulf of Thailand. Easily accessible from Sihanoukville, Kep and Koh Kong, a growing number house rustic bungalows for overnight stays. They may not have roads, cashpoints or mains electricity, but this is a small price to pay for squeaky-white beaches, warm translucent seas and an escapist, easy-going vibe. Controversially, a number of these islands have been leased to developers, mooted for super luxury resorts, so it’s anyone’s guess as to how long this rustic tranquility will remain. Time is of the essence if you wish to see them in their humblest form. Here are the best of Cambodia’s islands:

Best for escapism: Koh Totang

Koh Totang, a tiny dolphin-shaped island in the Koh S’Dach archipelago, is an escapist’s fantasy. Just seven people, plus a handful of roosters and dogs, live permanently on this wooded 650,000 square metre isle along with the owners and guests of the Crusoe-esque Nomads Land, an idyllic, five-bungalow retreat set on its sand-swept eastern shores. If what you’re looking for is complete tranquility, a chance to channel your inner yogi, time for beach-combing on deserted sands or a perch to explore neighbouring islands, few can beat this little gem.

Best for volunteering: Koh S’Dach

With over 2000 inhabitants, this small island houses the largest community across the Koh S’Dach archipelago. Fishing is king here and the authentic, yet surprisingly prosperous village is unaffected by tourism. Shallow Waters, a British marine NGO, has a base on the island and encourages wannabe marine conservationists to volunteer their services surveying coral reefs, collecting data and getting involved in community projects. You stay in over-water dorms, and non-divers learn the ropes on arrival.

Best for beachcombing: Koh Rong

The paradisiacal snow-white beaches (all 43 kilometres of them), aqua-hued ocean and twilight phosphorescence make this a favourite island for many. Its southeastern shores are the go-to place for young party-loving backpackers, however with 78 square kilometres to explore – most of which is undeveloped – it’s easy to find your own patch of paradise (we love Long Set Beach’s striking alabaster shores). The verdant interior is also ripe for trekking; Gil at Paradise Resort is always discovering new species on his guided nature walks.

Best for full moon parties: Koh Rong Samloem

Although Samloem has long been Koh Rong’s quieter sister island, and is – for the most part ­– laid back, sunrise-facing Saracen Bay’s full moon parties are fast putting the island on the backpacker map. Party boats leave Sihanoukville pier at 5.30pm on the day (shuttles operate from Koh Rong) for the all-night beach rave. The next day, nurse your hangover in one of the many bungalows scattered between the island’s striking, deserted beaches, including the idyllic Lazy Beach resort, and newcomer Huba Huba on Samloem’s only sunset-facing shore.

Best for camping: Koh Ta Kiev

With a journey time of less than an hour from the mainland, Koh Ta Kiev is one of Cambodia’s most easily accessible islands. Given that you can turn up at Crusoe Island, a rustic campground, and pitch your own tent or hammock on the beach for just a few dollars (or have someone else do all the hard work for you), it’s mighty popular, but don’t let this put you off. The jungly island is large and for those looking for more than a mahogany skin tone, activities range from jungle trekking and snorkelling to Khmer cooking and spear fishing classes.

Best for bird-watching: Koh Thmei

Located within Ream National Park, this serene mangrove-ringed island is home to just one very low-key eco-conscious venture, the Koh Thmei Resort, set on the island’s northwest beach. It’s a useful place to base yourself if you’re interested in sighting some of the island’s 155 bird species, including the endangered Brahminy kite. Alternatively, there are shell-sprayed beaches to stroll, a coral reef to snorkel, and nearby, the uninhabited Koh Ses Island, within a kayak’s reach.

Cambodia, Kampot Province, Tonsay Island (Rabbits Island), Cambodia Islands

Best for day trips: Rabbit Island

A popular day trip from sleepy Kep is to Koh Tonsay or Rabbit Island, a 30-minute longtail ride from the mainland. Home to three pale sand beaches framed by spidery coconut palms, the impetus is on beachcombing, jungle trekking and snorkelling or simply feasting on fresh crab cooked up at the local restaurants. The same also have simple timber huts if you’re tempted to stay the night.

Best for diving: Koh Tang & Koh Prins

Situated between five to eight hours from shore, these two islands – accessible on overnight or multi-day liveaboard diving expeditions from the mainland – boast the clearest and deepest waters for diving in Cambodia. Divers come here to get up close and personal with the stunning variety of corals, the rocky reefs and wrecks, where you might encounter octopus, barracuda and batfish.

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The friendliest countries in the world

Explore more of the world with the Rough Guides YouTube channel.

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22 Mar 2015

Songkran festival in Thailand

Kids fire super-powered water guns from the back of a zooming tuk tuk. A wrinkled woman blesses her grandchildren in a touching ceremony. Scented water showers over a Buddha image as Thai rock music thumps. Held annually from April 13-15, Thai New Year, or Songkran festival, is a time to cleanse, pay respects and let loose in some of the world’s wildest water fights. Sawasdee phimai! (Happy new year!)


Background
Songkran is rooted in the distant past. Ancient Indian Brahmins considered the passing of the moon, sun and planets into the zodiac sign of Aries to signal a new astrological year. The Sanskrit term songkran implies “ascending” or “moving on,” and this astronomical event takes place in April. For the ancients, animals emerging from hibernation, and trees bearing blossoms, probably contributed to this feeling of a fresh start.

Flower petals fill up a Chiang Mai canal over Songkran.
Flower petals fill up a Chiang Mai canal over Songkran.

Like so many influences from India, the April new year was adopted by the Thais, and adapted to become a distinctive part of Thai culture. Celebrated during the Thai hot season, before the monsoon rains, it’s a time when farmers are free from routine duties and a little water splashing helps to keep everyone cool. The Thais (also the Mon, Shan, Lao and others) have probably celebrated Songkran, in some way, since at least the 13th century.

Customs
While today’s Songkran can seem like it’s all about getting wet and crazy, traditionally the holiday focuses on renewal – and the old customs are still very much alive.

It begins by sweeping out houses, shops and schools to get rid of anything that was a negative influence over the past year. At temples, Buddha images are scrubbed clean by the monks, then sprinkled with scented water by the faithful. This blessed water, known in Thai as nam om, is later used in a ceremony to honour the elders. Young people gently wash the old folks’ hands in exchange for a blessing and a white string, symbolising longevity, which is tied around the wrist.

Leave it on until it falls off naturally to ensure your good luck.
Leave it on until it falls off naturally to ensure your good luck.

In one colourful aspect of Songkran that’s become a big draw for tourists, sacred Buddha images are removed from their wats and paraded around their communities. In the old days, the images would have been placed on carts or elephant-back, but with some exceptions (see below), pick-up trucks often do the job today.

At some point in the evolution of Songkran, revellers began splashing water on each other as a lighthearted extension of the cleansing custom. Usual inhibitions were gradually tossed aside. Laypeople could throw water on monks and young men and women could splash their crushes, gaining the holiday a reputation as a time for fun and courtship. Both of these are alive and thriving in today’s Songkran.

Young monks flirting with pretty girls? Why not, it's Songkran.
Young monks flirting with pretty girls? Why not, it’s Songkran.

Festival-goers also rub white talcum powder onto the faces of friends and strangers, a custom thought to bring good luck and protection — and is another means for young people to show their affection. This also has roots in India, where people have long used powders to mark different religious blessings and to celebrate festivals, Holi being the most obvious example. In everyday Thai life, monks use talcum to draw protective symbols on vehicles and in houses.

On temple grounds, tradition dictates the building of small sand stupas with coins buried inside for good luck. Once completed, the sandcastle mounds are decorated with ribbons, candles, joss sticks, shells and flowers, and then sprinkled with scented water. Many temples also hold fairs with plenty of food, beauty pageants, folk performances and the ritual of releasing caged birds and fish.

Wash that Buddha.
Wash that Buddha.

Could the ancient Brahmins have anticipated what Songkran would become? Probably not. But even today’s all-out water battles are rooted in these much older, gentler traditions. So when teenagers douse you in ice-cold water and laugh hysterically, keep in mind that they’re only performing an act of benevolent kindness.

Preparing and staying safe
For many foreigners and a growing number of young Thais, Songkran today is defined by water guns, wet T-shirts and no shortage of booze. It’s undoubtedly the biggest bash of the year in Thailand: think New Year’s Day, the Fourth of July/Guy Fawkes Day/Canada Day/Australia Day and the last day of elementary school, all rolled into one huge shebang.

Photo from Laos, where it's same same and not too different for Phimai Lao.
Photo from Laos, where it’s same same and not too different for Phimai Lao.

Make no mistake: you are going to get soaked. For the full three days (and extra days before and after in some places), Thais will bring buckets, water guns, hoses, fire cannons, coconut husks, plastic pails — anything that projects water — and employ them to drench anyone and everyone. You have two choices: stay in doors, or get your own water gun and go on the defensive.

Stick with flip flops on the feet and don’t forget sunblock, sunglasses (or goggles can be effective for tactical water fighting missions) and plenty of dry underwear for afterwards.

This photo only cost us a 5,000 baht camera repair!
This photo only cost us a 4,000 baht camera repair!

Place any valuables in water-proof plastic bags, which are sold everywhere during Songkran alongside water guns and balloons. Everyone wants photos of this event, but please don’t risk your expensive non-waterproof camera. As we once learned the hard way, the corner of a noodle shop does not provide adequate protection.

On a serious note, Thailand’s roads are dangerous at any time, but the risk jumps exponentially during Songkran, when drunk/reckless driving is more common than usual. During Songkran 2014, 3,225 people were injured in road accidents and an additional 322 people died. It cannot be stressed enough: be very careful crossing the street or getting in a taxi or tuk tuk. Renting a motorbike to ride through a party area is probably not a wise decision, even for the experienced.

Don't end up like this.
Don’t end up like this.

To sum up, use common sense. Don’t get so drunk that you can’t walk. Don’t take rides from tuk tuk drivers who smell like a bar. Don’t feel bad about walking away from people who are being aggressive.

Where to go
Songkran is celebrated all over Thailand, with several places displaying their own regional traditions. We’ve suggested some of the more popular destinations below, but you could have a great experience in just about any city, town or village.

Chiang Mai is a top destination for taking part in the full range of Songkran activities. Huge crowds of water-gun-toting locals, expats and travellers overrun the banks of the old quarter moat, where water is pumped into hoses for continual soakage. Elaborate ceremonies take place at historic temples like Wat Phra Singh, and an impressive parade lumbers up Tha Phae Road. The city also celebrates for two extra days, totalling five full days of water tossing.

A scene from Chiang Mai's Songkran parade.
A scene from Chiang Mai’s Songkran parade.

Bangkok becomes almost unrecognisable during Songkran. Millions of taxi drivers and labourers return to their home towns, leaving most of the normally choked streets free of traffic. Along with ceremonies at Sanam Luang and several temples, huge water parties take place at Khao San Road, Silom Road and Royal City Avenue. The Mon enclave of Phra Phradaeng puts on its own terrific festival on the Sunday following April 13-15.

The ancient Thai capital of Ayutthaya is a great option for those who hope to see Songkran in its more traditional incarnation. The highlight is a lengthy elephant procession, with ceremonies, beauty pageants, folk performances and plenty of water splashing taking place around the historical park. Not far to the north of Ayutthaya, Suphanburi is also a good choice, especially if you want to avoid other foreign tourists.

Ayutthaya's elephants enjoy a splash too.
Ayutthaya’s elephants enjoy a splash too.

A major city in Thailand’s northeastern Isaan, Khon Kaen hosts one of the kingdom’s largest Songkran festivals. Centring on Khao Niao (Sticky Rice) Road, the city turns out a colourful ox cart parade along with a wide array of folk performances and a food fair at Kaen Nakhon Lake. Another good option in Isaan is Nong Khai, which holds its own parade alongside the Mekong River.

Phuket gets things rolling with a ceremony in the island province’s capital city on the first day. The water fighting party is centred at Bangla Road in Patong, with the other major beach towns also getting in on the action. If you’re in Southern Thailand and want a more traditional Songkran, Nakhon Si Thammarat holds a large Buddha image parade and an interesting swinging contest that derives from an ancient Hindu ritual.

Don't like getting wet? Try hiding behind a coconut.
Don’t feel like getting wet? Try hiding behind a coconut.

If you’re planning to travel right before Songkran, be sure to book your tickets as early as possible. Train tickets from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, for example, will be sold out weeks in advance. Long-distance buses will have more available seats, but it’s still a good idea to purchase tickets at least a day or two beforehand. Most public transport, both local and inter-provincial, operates normally during the actual festival. If heading to one of the major Songkran destinations, advanced hotel bookings are also recommended.

We understand that getting drenched for several days straight is not for everyone. If you want to avoid Songkran without locking yourself up in a hotel room, you might head to a remote island, like Ko Kut or Ko Phayam, or a national park. The other option is to leave Thailand, though keep in mind that Burma, Laos and Cambodia each celebrate the related festivals of Thingyan, Phimai Lao and Chaul Chnam Thmey, respectively, around the same time.



Story by Travelfish Thailand

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17 Mar 2015

Gibbon Rehabilitation Project

Wander the streets and beaches of Phuket and other tourist destinations around Thailand and you’ll often soon be met by someone trying to sell you a photograph with an exotic animal. The thrill of an encounter with a gibbon, slow loris, iguana or python might add some excitement to someone’s tropical holiday, but what many don’t realise is that these happy snapshots mask a brutal, damaging and illegal trade.


The Gibbon Rehabilitation Project was set up on Phuket in 1992 with the aim to not only rescue such animals from the streets, but to raise awareness of their abuse in captivity and the threat to their wild populations. Gibbons and slow lorises are protected species under Appendix 1 on CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora) – animals listed in Appendix 1 are in most danger of extinction, and international trade in specimens of these species is prohibited.

Resident gibbon Phi Phi enjoys a healthier life since being rescued from Ko Phi Phi six years ago.
Resident gibbon Phi Phi enjoys a healthier life since being rescued from Ko Phi Phi six years ago.

The GRP sits near Bang Pae waterfall just inside the island’s Khao Phra Thaeo national park, housing about 70 animals including gibbons, slow lorises and dusky langurs. Poaching and smuggling killed off Phuket’s wild gibbon population some 30 years ago, but the project has since reintroduced 32 gibbons to the wild. Around half of them have successfully adapted to their newfound freedom and 15 babies have been born wild so far.

Patong beach: fun city for some, hell for captive gibbons.
Patong beach: fun city for some, hell for captive gibbons.

Most of the gibbons rescued, however, suffer from physical damage or mental trauma and must stay in the shelter for the rest of their lives. Among the slow lorises cared for at the GRP, none will be able to return to their native habitat since their teeth are usually pulled or filed down to protect against their venomous bite. Without their protective teeth, these doll-eyed primates would not survive in the wild.

Wide-eyed slow lorises like rescued resident 'Jora' are coveted for their cuddly looks.
Wide-eyed slow lorises like this rescued resident ‘Jora’ are coveted for their cuddly looks.

Despite the efforts of the GRP and animal rescue organisations around the world to educate the public, many visitors remain ignorant of the dark side of the photo-prop trade. When the hapless – some might say clueless – pop star Rihanna shared her slow loris selfie taken at Patong beach with her 42 million Twitter followers in September 2013, the reaction was swift and widespread.

Some highly publicised arrests followed but, sadly, business continued as usual here once the worldwide outrage died down. Nevertheless, the GRP used it as an opportunity to spread awareness in an open letter to Rihanna.

Bambam and Peepoo are among the gibbons set to be released into the wild in a GRP pilot project in Chiang Mai.
Bambam and Peepoo are among the gibbons set to be released into the wild in a GRP pilot project in Chiang Mai.

The most obvious and easiest way to help is to avoid taking photos with animals, and endangered animals in particular, while on holiday in Thailand, since the trade will only truly come to an end if it’s no longer profitable. The GRP also recommends that if you see any photo props in action to report it to National Park headquarters or send a complaint to the Department of National Parks, Wildlife and Plant Conservation.

As a privately funded foundation, the GRP always welcomes donations, which can be paid online via Pay Pal, by bank transfer, or in cash at the donation boxes at the project site. For further information on donations see this page, but we were unable to donate at the time of publication due to some random PayPal issue -- we're working on it!

Visiting the Gibbon project is highly recommended anyway, for the chance to see (and hear!) some of the rescued gibbons – at a distance — and learn more about these amazing apes. It’s the only animal attraction on Phuket with a focus to help, not profit from, its creatures on display.

Gibbon project volunteers take part in post-release gibbon observations.
Gibbon project volunteers take part in post-release gibbon observations.

Support may also be provided by adopting a gibbon – donors give ongoing financial support and will receive updates on their “adopted” gibbon in return.

Volunteers are also welcome to come and help out with various activities from feeding the animals to manning the gift shop to assist with outreach education programmes. Experience is not required but they do ask that volunteers be willing to commit to at least three weeks.

Many thanks to primate researcher Petra Osterberg and GRP manager Phamon Samphanthamit for providing their photos and insights for this article.

Gibbon Rehabilitation Project
104/3 Moo 3 Paklock, Thalang, Phuket (about 10km east of the Heroine’s Monument on Route 4027)
T: (076) 260 491
www.gibbonproject.org

Each month a Travelfish.org writer selects a charity or non-government organisation that they believe does excellent work on their patch in Southeast Asia. They write about them and we donate $100, a small way for us to give something back to the region. If you're looking to give back too, please consider giving a little cash as well.


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